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True surfing is primitive, pure and full of love

True surfing has long been considered by many to be a very romantic and sensual art form. Most women find the sight of a man riding a wave appealing, raw and real. After a day of surfing, most surfers are pretty well lit up, feeling that inner cup of life spilling over like an endless, perfect-flowing wave.

Bedazzling, electrifying and satisfying every time, true surfing is more than a lifestyle it’s a deep passion that begins with respect, honesty and truth. The ocean can be very good to a surfer, it can also quickly put him in his place should he become too cocky or high-and-mighty.

The ocean and the waves demand complete and honest respect from all surfers at all times. The deeper the relationship a surfer develops for the ocean and waves, the deeper his love and respect will naturally be for the ocean and waves. Surfers show respect by paying attention to the ocean’s moods and feelings and then reacting or responding accordingly. When the ocean calls, they listen. When the ocean is too rough or acting wild, they know to back off - to give her time and space. While waiting for the ocean to calm down, surfers remain patient and loyal, preparing for the moment they will reunite with the waves.

True surfing is unconditional. When a surfer is into surfing, he looks for all the good things in a day rather than picking it apart. If the wind is blowing hard and the waves are scattered and choppy, hardcore surfers hang in there. It’s all part of a wondrous and euphoric experience. For hardcore surfers, there is no such thing as a good wave or a bad wave only waves. Surfing the rough days makes surfing the smooth days that much more sweet. Fair-weather surfers who wait for the right wave or all the conditions to come together in expected ways miss out on a whole lot of valuable surfing experience. Hardcore surfers take what they can get, make the most out of their surfing experience.

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Each moment in surfing is sacred and once a wave has been ridden it can never be recreated. Blink and it’s gone. Remain receptive and open and the surfing feeling will forever be suspended in the timeless realm of the heart. One wave is enough. No surfer knows beforehand if he will have a good ride or a wipeout on a wave. Nor can a surfer predict how long a ride will go. This is what keeps surfing thrilling and ever-exciting. The thrill of surfing, however, is not so much in the outcome of the ride as it is during the ride. Long-time surfers cherish every ride as much or more than their very first ride. Every ride is a new experience that just keeps building, getting better, growing ever-deeper. True surfing keeps a surfer feeling alive and forever young. Each time an experienced surfer goes surfing he recommits his love and devotion to the ocean. Every time is the first time one more time and is sacred.

Surfing is as primitive, clean and pure as a relationship should be - just a surfer with his wave. A long, deep tube ride that lasts a while is like going to heaven for most surfers. But it’s all those waves in-between that build up a surfer’s stamina to endure the big rides. Inexperienced surfers are always rushing. Good surfers try to stay in the pocket longer and sustain the moment, make it last. Each and every surfer has their own personal relationship with the sea. What a surfer puts into surfing he receives back seven times plus. True surfing is true love. Aloha.

E-mail surfing experts Michael and Milton Willis at wbsurfing@hotmail.com.


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