For many surfers, surfing is a lot more than the art of riding waves. It’s also about having a personal and close relationship with the ocean. Sailors, fisherman, poets and surfers have expressed a special love for the ocean since the beginning of time. And the wave rolls on today.
Those who know the ocean must be filled with love and devotion. She demands respect. She commands responsibility. Her truth is her justice. She speaks to those who listen. She calls to those who cannot resist. To love her is to commit fully to her mind, body and soul. To be loved is good. To love is better. No love; no life.
The seed of love is respect. Without respect, there can be no true love. The ocean is a wonder park, a school, and a source of life. It’s a place to connect and harmonize with the very essence of all life.
Surfers are best to approach the ocean with deep reverence. An old surfers saying goes, “The Ocean will give you a thrill, but disrespect her at your will and you may find you take a spill. What she teaches, surfers must learn, if to shore they want to return.”
One does not have to love in order to respect, but one must have respect in order to love. Respect begets responsibility, the ability to respond.
Many are the moods, and emotions, of the vast, mighty, ever-changing ocean. A wise surfer heeds the vicissitudes of the ocean and responds accordingly. One moment she can be calm, and the next moment can be roaring with tempest. Sometimes, she plays and delights. Other times, she disciplines and punishes.
Do everything right and you may experience heaven on earth. Do anything wrong, you may experience something else. Each, and every, surfer is responsible for creating their very best rides as well as responsible for causing their worst wipeouts with their thoughts, and actions, whether they acknowledge it or not.
Surfers and watermen demonstrate respect and responsibility for the ocean, less because of fear and more because of love. At the center of a powerfully breaking wave is calmness, just as in the eye of a swirling hurricane.
Truth is at the center of love, which revolves around and emanates from truth. Everything in the universe changes except the truth. Love that is true lasts forever.
Regarding the ocean waves, it shall matter not whether they’re big or small, breaking this way or not at all. If a surfer loves the ocean with all his heart, he will always love the ocean with all his heart, yesterday, today, tomorrow, forever and a day. Can’t change that. Just as love does not last without truth, truth cannot last without love. Can’t change that.
As a surfer begins to love the ocean, the ocean seems to speak out, or communicate, with that surfer, not necessarily in words but rather in feelings and impressions. Surfers listening to the ocean find it easier to surf in harmony with the ocean.
This type of listening does not take place with the ears. It takes place with the heart. Communication comes in many forms other than words - small gestures, a person’s posture, or the way something is said, can communicate volumes more than anything said.
There are times when a glance, a movement or saying no word at all could say more than all the words in the world. Rest assured the ocean will reveal all life’s deepest mysteries for the surfer who finds a way to listen.
Some surfers flirt. Some fool around. But when you find love, you stick around. You get out of love what you put into love. Whether you love surfing, reading, stargazing or another person, be like a waterman who maintains a deep and committed relationship.
Give your all. One must put in 100 percent to receive 100 percent. Anything less brings that much less.
Be present. Be awake. Be alive to your feelings as well as others. When a surfer harmoniously dances on the wave, there are no distractions. Wave becomes surfer. Surfer becomes wave. The two become one. Suddenly, everything becomes crystal clear and the whole universe joins together in perfect synchronicity. Here, now, forever and a day, renewing and strengthening, Love, affection, romance and passion, wave by wave, moment by moment. To know love is to know life.