Master surfer and board shaper Dick Brewer says, “Surfing is the most difficult thing a human can do. No two waves are alike.”
If surfing is the most difficult thing for a human to do, big-wave surfing is at the apex of the most difficult things for a human to do.
No one becomes a big-wave surfer over night. It takes many years of preparation and practice to become a big-wave surfer. In the world of big wave surfing, preparation is crucial not only for success but also for survival. When preparing for success, smart big-wave surfers also prepare for failure.
World-champion extreme big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara prepares for success with every fiber of his mind and body. Success for McNamara is living his dream of surfing giant waves and taking care of his family.
It’s not enough to have a dream, one has also to work for that dream. McNamara puts in the physical training it requires to be a champion big-wave surfer. He also works at making a living doing what he loves by taking care of the business side of things.
McNamara prepares for financial success with as much focus as he does his surfing success.
There was a time not long ago when very few surfers had heard of Garrett McNamara. His only sponsor was a North Shore surfboard company. Today, he is sponsored by large companies and is a household name amongst hardcore surfers.
This did not happen overnight. McNamara went out and proved himself before he was ever sponsored. When sponsors did not approach straight away, McNamara took matters into his own hands and contacted the sponsors. It has not been easy, but through hard work, creativity and effort, Garrett now makes a very handsome living with his dream.
All big-wave surfers want to catch a big wave, but no big-wave surfer wants to suffer a big wipe out. It’s the fear of wiping out that keeps many surfers from becoming big-wave surfers.
Fear of wiping out keeps many from aspiring to their life dreams. In big-wave surfing, it’s not if you’re going to wipe out, it’s when. Sooner or later every big-wave surfer goes down, every big-wave surfer faces his worst fears. Being prepared well ahead of time to face a wipeout is the best way to survive a wipeout.
McNamara does not let fear or wipeouts keep him from his dream.
By preparing for the worst, big-wave surfers are able to stay focused on the best. McNamara regularly swims out into high surf, just to get used to being knocked and rolled around. He also practices holding his breath for extended periods of time while running with a rock under water. McNamra works on being comfortable in the least comfortable situations. While other surfers would be paralyzed with fear to surf the waves McNamara surfs, they haven’t put the time in preparing like he has.
Become a co-creator in your own destiny by creating the dream life you desire to live. Whatever your dream is, succeed at it by preparing in advance. Prepare for the lowest as well as highest moments, for all real dreams come at a cost. The biggest waves are found in the deepest water. Concerning dreams, be patient. Good things take time, so do dreams. Strong winds produce big waves. Any dream worth having is worth preparing and working for. Like Garrett McNamara, have a dream and hold on to it. Prepare to make it happen and it will happen.
Be sure to watch the Willis brothers on VH1’s “Surreal Life” on Oct. 3.
E-mail surfing experts Michael and Milton Willis at firstname.lastname@example.org.