Pledge allegiance to 7 precepts of big-wave surfing
Mother Ocean demands participants of big-wave surfing adhere to the absolute highest standards of conduct and honor. Her natural laws prevail.
There are seven precepts that are important to big-wave surfers. To understand one, one must understand all.
Big-wave surfers wanting to live to surf another big-wave day must obey, or they will pay.
The seven precepts of big-wave surfing are wisdom, temperance, modesty, magnanimity, reverence, courage and commitment.
The first precept of big-wave surfing is wisdom. You must say to yourself: As a big-wave surfer, I will exercise prudence in all my decisions. Big-wave surfers must use wisdom and understanding in every thought and action.
There is a time to go and, just as often, a time to say no. Prudent decisions are wise decisions. Big-wave surfers are not reckless. They are calculated in every thought and action. Forethought and far-sightedness are two of big-wave surfers’ best friends.
The second precept of big-wave surfing is temperance. As a big wave surfer, I will practice moderation and self-control. Self-restraint goes a long way when it comes to surfing big waves.
Big-wave surfers must be selective when it comes to choosing just the right wave for the best ride.
Surfers who get greedy and try to catch all the waves usually end up exhausted and dangerously tired. Surfers pacing themselves and taking their time usually catch the biggest and best waves. Quality is much better than quantity.
The third precept of big-wave surfing is modesty. As a big-wave surfer, I will remain humble.
An army cannot defeat the power of the ocean waves. Big-wave surfers who act up get put down.
There is no room for arrogance in big-wave surfing. No surfer can create a giant wave. Only nature can do this.
The best a surfer can do is surf a giant wave. Give credit where credit is due. No man can create a day; the best a man can do is live it. Approaching big-wave surfing with humility begins with recognizing a higher power.
The forth precept of big-wave surfing is magnanimity. As a big-wave surfer, I will keep all of my motives honorable and noble.
Big-waves surfers answer a higher call. It’s not money or fame that compels surfers to ride big waves. The call to surf big waves must be pure and come from the heart.
A surfer’s mind and heart must be pure and clean to ride big waves. Only when the heart and mind are pure and clean can a big-wave surfer have the concentration it takes to succeed.
It takes a clear mind to surf big waves, which starts with a clear conscience.
The fifth precept of big-wave surfing is reverence. As a big-wave surfer, I will respect and revere all life.
Big-wave surfing begins with respect. If the surfer does not first respect himself, how can he respect others? Take care of your life first. Then you will be in a position to help take care of others.
Surfers share the ocean with sharks, dolphins, turtles and other sea creatures. Big-wave surfing is a walk on the sparkle wall between life and death through which one realizes the sacredness of every living thing.
The sixth precept of big-wave surfing is courage. As a big-wave surfer, I will stand brave, I shall fear not.
Fear paralyzes. Valor liberates. False bravery is foolishness. Real bravery is courageous. It takes as much courage to face our fears as it does for a big-wave surfer to face a tidal wave.
Faith begets courage. There can be no fear where there is faith.
It took courage for the first surfer to ride a wave. It takes courage to have a dream. Go ahead, be brave, have a dream. Having a dream is the first step to living your dream.
The seventh precept of big-wave surfing is commitment. As a big-wave surfer, I will remain committed. A big-wave