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La Jolla’s Ivanhoe Avenue: A laid-back treasure then, now ... and evermore?

7925-Ivanhoe
This 1916 panorama shows Ivanhoe Avenue looking toward Prospect Street. The building at left (Olson House, Lathrop House) was once the site of the Balmer School, which became what is today La Jolla Country Day School (now in UTC). Today, this stretch of Ivanhoe contains the Bentz Building, which op
This 1916 panorama shows Ivanhoe Avenue looking toward Prospect Street. The building at left (Olson House, Lathrop House) was once the site of the Balmer School, which became what is today La Jolla Country Day School (now in UTC). Today, this stretch of Ivanhoe contains the Bentz Building, which opened in 1962 and now includes tenants such as Mary’s English Kitchen, Barre 59 studio, Hi Sweetheart and Swoon boutique. Across Ivanhoe and still standing is Congregational Church, which held its first Sunday service in January 1916. La Jolla Historical Society Photos

Etymology of an Avenue

■ Ivanhoe Avenue takes its name from the popular 1820 novel ‘Ivanhoe,’ by Scottish historical novelist, playwright and poet,

Sir Walter Scott

, where it is used as the surname of the protagonist Wilfred of Ivanhoe.

■ Ivanhoe Avenue was first named

Ictinus

after the Greek architect, known for his work on the Parthenon and the Acropolis. Ictinus lost to Ivanhoe in a major renaming of La Jolla streets in 1900, reportedly at the suggestion of Ellen Browning Scripps, who probably admired Scott’s acclaimed novel and its battle-worn, but triumphant hero, who endures burning castles, devious monks and

combat with errant knights to achieve his kingdom and the hand of the lovely Lady Rowena.

— La Jolla Historical Society

Ivanhoe Avenue businesswomen Lisa Lehmkuhl (Barre 59), Alison Brown (Mary’s English Kitchen) and Molly Cygan Rossettie (Hi Sweetheart) are part of a tight-knit family of merchants in the Bentz Building on Ivanhoe, next to the historic Wall Street post office.  Pat Sherman
Ivanhoe Avenue businesswomen Lisa Lehmkuhl (Barre 59), Alison Brown (Mary’s English Kitchen) and Molly Cygan Rossettie (Hi Sweetheart) are part of a tight-knit family of merchants in the Bentz Building on Ivanhoe, next to the historic Wall Street post office. Pat Sherman
Learn more about ‘The Shops on Ivanhoe’ online

facebook.com/TheShopsonIvanhoe

instagram.com/shopsonivanhoe

One of the remaining street lamps (and old-style street signs) in the Village; this one at Ivanhoe Avenue and Prospect Street. La Jolla Historical Society
One of the remaining street lamps (and old-style street signs) in the Village; this one at Ivanhoe Avenue and Prospect Street. La Jolla Historical Society

By Pat Sherman

Removed from the bustle of Prospect Street and Girard Avenue, the quiescent, three-block stretch that makes up Ivanhoe Avenue (between Prospect and Torrey Pines Road) doesn’t always get its due.

“In its earliest days it was a street of mainly small cottages bearing names such as Linger Longer, Michiquita and Waverly,” La Jolla Historical Society historian Carol Olen writes, in the society’s

Timekeeper

newsletter. “One of La Jolla’s most-treasured book stores, John Cole’s, started on Ivanhoe before moving to Wisteria Cottage on Prospect Street” (today part of the La Jolla Historical Society campus).

But this tree-lined, tranquil street, with its current array of notable architecture, boutique shops, office space and two cozy eateries, is worth another look.

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes of the 2012 Mr. Taco fire — which led to the popular eatery’s demise — the ground-level retail spaces in the Bentz Building between Wall and Prospect streets are all rented and business owners have created a palpable synergy.

This building at 7917 Ivanhoe Ave. was deigned by the late La Jolla architect Russell Forester as the Jefferson Gallery, which operated on the second story in the mid-1960s.
This building at 7917 Ivanhoe Ave. was deigned by the late La Jolla architect Russell Forester as the Jefferson Gallery, which operated on the second story in the mid-1960s.

“It’s like a little family; we all take care of each other,” said Lisa Lehmkuhl, who opened Barre 59 studio six years ago in the Bentz Building, which was built where the Balmer School (forerunner of La Jolla Country Day School) was once located.

“It’s a little bit more affordable for a small business,” Lehmkuhl said of Ivanhoe. “There’s a lot of parking and it’s close to where the action is, although you don’t have to pay the high rents like on Prospect or Girard.”

Lehmkuhl is one of several female business owners in the Bentz Building, including Kate Yetman of Swoon Collection clothing, Alison Brown of Mary’s English Kitchen and Molly Cygan Rossettie of Hi Sweetheart gift boutique.

The Spanish-style El Patio Building, designed by notable La Jolla architect Henry Hester (with Ronald Davis), opened in 1962. It is today home to various office spaces, galleries and the La Jolla Music Society
The Spanish-style El Patio Building, designed by notable La Jolla architect Henry Hester (with Ronald Davis), opened in 1962. It is today home to various office spaces, galleries and the La Jolla Music Society

Yetman said a lot has changed on Ivanhoe since she opened Swoon in December. “With the new shops opening, there is a new pulse on the street,” she said.

Brown noted her English tearoom and café’s proximity to reasonably priced public parking on Cave Street and an underground garage at Ivanhoe and Silverado Street (just $5 a day).  “I believe there’s lots of   variety here,” she said. “It’s a good street, and it’s coming back to life.”

A view up Ivanhoe Avenue toward the Pacific Ocean circa 1900, as seen from Silverado Street.  La Jolla Historical Society
A view up Ivanhoe Avenue toward the Pacific Ocean circa 1900, as seen from Silverado Street. La Jolla Historical Society

That variety — and history — is evident while sipping tea and nibbling finger sandwiches from the patio of Mary’s English Kitchen or enjoying an Italian dish and glass of wine on the Bistro Pazzo patio (also in the Bentz Building). From either eatery, one can watch people coming and going from the historic Wall Street Post Office, or gaze across at the majestic Congregational Church of La Jolla. The building was designed by architect Carleton Winslow in 1915, who also designed many of the buildings in Balboa Park for the 1915-1917 Panama-California Exposition (World’s Fair). The congregation will celebrate the building’s centennial next year.

One of the two oldest public buildings in the Village (Bishop’s School is the other), Congregational Church held its first service in January 1916, adding a fellowship hall, social hall, Sunday school rooms and stained glass in the 1950s and ’60s, Pastor Sam Greening said.

Although its tower was absent a bell for many years, in the early 1960s children in the congregation raised money to purchase one of the last original bells belonging to the more than 600-mile-long El Camino Real trail (later roadway) that connected 21 missions, from San Diego to Sonoma. “To this day, it’s always a child who rings the bell at the beginning of Sunday service,” Greening said, adding that he thinks the historic Wall Street Post Office (threatened with sale and relocation) gives Ivanhoe its personality.

This corner at Ivanhoe Avenue and Roslyn Lane (today home to the five-story Machnester Financial Building) was once the site of a quaint cottage housing Betty Crane Real Estate. La Jolla Historical Society
This corner at Ivanhoe Avenue and Roslyn Lane (today home to the five-story Machnester Financial Building) was once the site of a quaint cottage housing Betty Crane Real Estate. La Jolla Historical Society

“The continuing presence of the post office is important to us,” Greening said. “Without it, I think the character of the block would change horrendously.”

Next to the church, at 7917 Ivanhoe, is a two-story building designed by architect Russell Forester (1920-2002), whose famed mid-century designs included some of the first Jack-in-the-Box restaurants. Opening in April 1965, it was home to the Jefferson Gallery, which relocated from Girard Avenue.

The gallery’s opening drew nearly 400 people for a Champagne reception, according to the La Jolla Historical Society, and included luminaries such as La Jolla painter and illustrator, Phil Kirkland.

Russell Forester’s daughter, Lynn Forester, recalls visiting Kirkland’s “crazy cottage,” just a half block down on Prospect Street with her parents, who collected his pieces. “He was very much sort of a hippie and his cottage was full of interesting, strange things,” recalled Forester, a young girl at the time. “He often painted or drew women without shirts. I asked him, ‘How come your women don’t have any shirts on?’ and he said, ‘Oh, their shirts are at the cleaners.’ … He was a character.”

This five-story building at 7855 Ivanhoe Ave. opened in 1964 as the La Jolla Bank building. It was designed by famed La Jolla architect Robert Mosher.
This five-story building at 7855 Ivanhoe Ave. opened in 1964 as the La Jolla Bank building. It was designed by famed La Jolla architect Robert Mosher.

Jefferson Gallery was pivotal to San Diego’s modern and contemporary art scene of the mid-1960s, until the owners “abruptly closed the gallery in 1968 for personal reasons,” shocking the local art scene, Olten writes.

At the foot of Wall Street, at 7855 Ivanhoe, architect Robert Mosher (San Diego-Coronado Bridge, UC San Diego’s John Muir College) designed what was in 1964 Ivanhoe’s tallest structure, the five-story La Jolla Bank Building (today home to Pacific Sotheby’s Realty and other tenants).

The land where this cottage stood at the corner of Ivanhoe Avenue and Wall Street is now Willis Allen Real Estate company, which is observing is centennial this year. La Jolla Historical Society.
The land where this cottage stood at the corner of Ivanhoe Avenue and Wall Street is now Willis Allen Real Estate company, which is observing is centennial this year. La Jolla Historical Society.

Mosher said he is still proud of the building, with its New Orleans-inspired balconies (a detail rarely used on office buildings), though notes that he was not responsible for the “terrible” rooftop shack (part of a later fix to cover a contractor’s air conditioning debacle).

Mosher recalled telling the bank’s board of directors, “People are not going to be real happy with a five-story building in La Jolla,” going on to suggest the French Quarter-style balconies to soften the building’s fenestration. “Our building ... dominated everything,” Mosher recalled. “It was a choice that the bank made because they intended to (have) income property there.”

Congregational Church of La Jolla will celebrate the building’s centennial next year. It was designed by Carleton Winslow, who also designed many of the buildings in Balboa Park for the 1915-1917 Panama-California Exposition.
Congregational Church of La Jolla will celebrate the building’s centennial next year. It was designed by Carleton Winslow, who also designed many of the buildings in Balboa Park for the 1915-1917 Panama-California Exposition.

Further down on Ivanhoe, the building once housing the former Copley Press headquarters in the 7700 block of Ivanhoe (at Silverado) has been remodeled as office and commercial space. Next door, between Silverado and Kline streets, elements of several of La Jolla’s original beach cottages have been incorporated into the Heritage on Ivanhoe residential development, completed last year.

Coming this week, the latest work in the

Murals of La Jolla

public art project (the first under the auspices of the Athenaeum Music & Arts Library) will be installed at 7835 Ivanhoe Ave. The work, “One Pointed Attention,” by San Diego artist Kelsey Brookes, will be installed by Friday, Aug. 15. Born and raised in Denver, Colorado, Brookes attended Colorado State University for biochemistry and spent much of early years as a scientist. In 2005, he left the sciences to become a full time artist, and has since created album cover art for artists such as the Red Hot Chili Peppers and The Flaming Lips.