Kitchen Shrink: A trio of December celebrations tempt clever cooks

By Catherine Kaufman


This month three major holidays with different cultural foods and festivities converge. Since we’re a melting pot and there are a lot of crossovers among the cultures, we’re fortunate to be able to partake in the delights of all of the traditions.

Here are some food highlights from the three big winter festivals – Christmas, Chanukah and Kwanza.

From Eggnog to Yule Log

Whether you celebrate Noel or not, you can’t help but become intoxicated by the spirit of the holiday that is ubiquitous throughout the land. ‘Tis the season for sugar and spice and edible vice.

Christmas spices come out of the pantry like cloves, nutmeg, allspice, peppermint and ginger. Desserts are a bazillion calories and grams of sugar, flying off the glycemic index, and some are so heavy and dense they could double as weight-training devices or decorative doorstops like the fruitcake that dates back to the Middle Ages, marzipan, plum pudding, mincemeat pie, gingerbread houses, and imports like panettone, stollen and the Buche de Noel, aka the Yule Log.

Exotic fowl of goose, swan and pheasant are served at Christmas tables around the world along with cocktails and mocktails that scream Christmas cheer – from the traditional eggnog and hot apple cider, to creative mixologist’s holiday concoctions including a Gingerbread Man with butterscotch schnapps and Bailey’s Irish Cream, and a Mistletoe Martini with melon liquor, coconut rum and pineapple juice.

Finally, home baked chocolate chip cookies and a tall glass of milk are symbolic offerings for Santa after he makes his chimney deliveries.

Festival of Lights, Latkes

Chanukah used to be a minor celebration in the Jewish line-up of holidays, but thanks to Christmas-envy among Jewish children who are in awe of the bedecked trees and whole neighborhoods that are lit-up and sparkle like a fairytale wonderland, Chanukah has been elevated to the A-list.

Jews celebrate the “festival of lights” to commemorate the miracle in the days of Judah Macabee when they found a flask that contained enough oil to burn for eight days for the rededication ceremony of their desecrated temple in Jerusalem.

Candles held in a Jewish candelabra called a menorah are lit for eight days, and doughnuts and latkes or potato pancakes fried in oil served with traditional toppings of applesauce and sour cream are part of the modern day celebration.

When my grandma was growing up in Russia, her family performed a beautiful “festival of lights” ritual called the Flaming Tea Ceremony. Cones of sugar were crumpled into chunky chunks and doused with brandy.

Everyone was given a glass of hot tea and a teaspoon full of brandied sugar. The lights were dimmed and a lit taper was passed around the room, lighting everyone’s high-octane sugar. When the last person’s sugar was ablaze, they dropped the flaming cubes into their tea and the room sizzled. Ooooh! Aaaah!

Then they sang Hanukkah songs and noshed on my great-grandma’s Old World apple strudel.

Kwanza: The Newbie on the Block

Kwanza, a seven-day secular celebration of African American heritage, begins on Dec. 26 every year since 1966. “Kwanza” translates from Swahili to “first fruits” in honor of the treasure trove of harvest fruits and veggies from the African soils. Some traditional dishes served during the Kwanza feast are Koki, a black-eyed pea appetizer; peanut soup; okra and greens; anything yam since the root is considered “the king of crops”; and for dessert, “the first fruits” of fruit salad or coconut pie.

Combining the yam from Kwanza and the latkes from Chanukah, here’s a garnet yam latkes recipe accompanied by a spirited Christmas cocktail so it goes down smooth. Cheers!

Garnet Yam Latkes

(where possible, use organics)

4 large garnet yams or sweet potatoes

2 eggs

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon brown sugar

2 tablespoons raisins

2 tablespoons chopped dates (optional)

1/4 cup chopped pecans or walnuts

Grapeseed or safflower oil

Peel the potatoes, and grate coarsely, by hand or in a food processor. Drain well and transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs, salt, flour, sugar, salt and blend well. Gently fold in the nuts, dates and raisins. In a heavy skillet, heat 1/8-inch to ¼-inch of oil. Spoon the potato mixture into the hot oil. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Drain with paper towels. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve with sour cream or fresh whipped cream.

Christmas Cosmopolitan

1/2 ounce Cointreau

1/2 ounce white cranberry juice

1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

1 ounce of vodka

Frozen cranberries


Half fill a shaker with ice then add the other ingredients. Shake vigorously until well blended. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and toss in some frozen cranberries.

For more holiday recipes, e-mail

or check out